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good, but in ponds they have usually a strong rank flavour. Except the middle of
summer, they are always in season.
Lobsters.--If they have not been long taken, the claws will have a strong motion
when you put your finger on the eyes and press them. The heaviest are the best,
and it is preferable to boil them at home. When you buy them ready-boiled, try
whether their tails are stiff, and pull up with a spring; otherwise that part
will be flabby. The cock lobster is known by the narrow back part of his tail,
and the two uppermost fins within it are stiff and hard; but those of the hen
are soft, and the tail broader. The male, though generally smaller, has the
highest flavour, the flesh is firmer, and the colour when boiled is a deeper
red.
Crabs.--The heaviest are best, and those of a middling size are sweetest. If
light they are watery: when in perfection the joints of the legs are stiff, and
the body has a very agreeable smell. The eyes look dead and loose when stale.
Prawns and Shrimps.--When fresh they have a sweet flavour, are firm and stiff,
and the colour is bright,--Shrimps are of the prawn kind, and may be judged by
the same rules.
Oysters.--There are several kinds; the Pyfleet, Colchester, and Milford, are
much the best. The native Milton are fine, being white and fat; but others may
be made to possess both these qualities in some degree by proper feeding. When
alive and strong the shell closes on the knife. They should be eaten as soon as
opened, the flavour becoming poor otherwise. The rock oyster is largest, but
usually has a coarse flavour if eaten raw.
Flounders.--They should be thick, firm, and have their eyes bright. They very
soon become flabby and bad. They are both sea and river fish. The Thames
produces the best. They are in season from January to March, and from July to
September.
Sprats.--Choose by the same rules as Herrings.
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